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Monday, November 4, 2013

Kastoria

Recently I visited Kastoria and I was reminded why everyone speaks with delight about this small city. Kastoria is a little gem build on a peninsula which extends into a beautiful lake. The Orestiada lake. Kastoria is situated about 190 km from Thessaloniki or 490 km from Athens. In my opinion you will need 4 or 5 days and a car to see Kastoria and some places around. If you only want to see Kastoria 2-3 days will be enough but it would be pity to miss for example a visit to Nymfaio (a magnificent village where ''Arktouros'' bear shelter is).

Kastoria as seen from the entrance of the city

The peninsula where Kastoria is built, is a hill and the city extends on both slopes of this hill. The two most characteristic neighborhoods of Kastoria are ''Doltso'' and ''Apozari''. These two neighbourhoods consists of old houses build in a noble traditional style. Even the newer houses are built in a way to resemble this style so as not to alter the whole personality of the area. Walking the cobblestone streets of Doltso and Apozari is something you shouldn't miss if you visit Kastoria.
From days past until today citizens of Kastoria were excelling in making furs and everything made of leather. Especially furs, along with tourism, is their main income. You shall find many shops inside or on the suburbs of the city that sell the finest of furs and leather clothes.
Cobblestone streets in ''Doltso" neighborhood
The other thing (except from furs and leather) that Kastoria is known for is it's lake. This beautiful lake is populated by many kind of fish and around it live many kind of birds like ducks, swans and other species. Maybe the first thing that everyone who visits Kastoria should do is to go round the peninsula by car or on foot. The whole round is about 7 km long and after a point the road becomes one way traffic. To do this you should follow the south beach road which is named Megalou Alexandrou (translation: Alexander the Great). After you pass a lot of cafes and restaurants by the lake the scenery begins to change......The road becomes one way and quite narrow and the view is breathtaking. Old trees form a tunel over your head and by your right hand you can see the beautiful lake. It's usual for the lake to freeze at winter providing a scenic view but in my opinion autumn or spring are the best seasons to visit the city. If you visit the city and especially this lake road in Autumn a carpet of brown leaves lay on your feet while the light of the sun comes through the last red and brown leaves of the trees above your head.
Road by the lake that circle Kastoria's peninsula
Another part of the lake road
Another part of the lake road
Anytime of year you will meet people jogging, cycling or just walk this road by the lake and you can see by the pictures why........Of course my photos can't give you the whole image which is far better! Midway the circle of the peninsula you shall meet the cave of the dragon (spilia tou drakou), which is a cave you can visit and the monastery of Holy Mary Mavriotissa (Panagia Mavriotissa). Ending the circle of the peninsula you reach the north beach of the Kastoria city which is very beautiful too.
Part of the north beach of the city
If you like museums a nice one to visit is the folklore museum which is in the Doltso area (Kapetan Lazou street). The building of the museum is a typical noble house of times old. There you can see how a house of that time was structured, with it's cellars, the living areas, some clothes of old times and even a script of that era made between the father of a family and his soon to be son in law about the amount of dowry. As you see, back then, it was something natural for a man to demand returns in order to marry a woman. Different times, different habbits.
Strolling through the city you shall see that every few steps you should come upon an old chuch. These churches are characteristic of Byzantine and after Byzantine architecture and some of the most known are Panagia Koubelidiki and Agios Stefanos.
After a long walk to the streets of Kastoria you will need to rest and enjoy nice food. One of the best restaurants I have visited is 'Doltso', named by the famous neighborhood and of course it's situated in this neighborhood. The building is a traditional one and the service is exceptional as are the dishes. Try local recipies and I believe you will be more than pleased.
If at some point you feel you have seen enough of Kastoria there are many other things to see or do around this beautiful city.
About 5 km south of Kastoria is a small village called Dispilio. The reason that someone should visit Dispilio is the fine representation of a prehistoric village by the lake. Thousands of years before people built there huts made of clay and canes. In todays representation you can see these huts and inside them tools and other everyday things that prehistoric people used.
 Representation of prehistoric lake village


Wooden huts built on the lake
At Dispilio there is a fantastic little hotel too if you deside to stay outside Kastoria. The hotel's name is Villa Del Lago. By staying there you solve the parking problem that exists in some of Kastoria's neighborhoods while you are only 10 minutes by car away. Moreover I was delighted with the rooms, the location (just 100 meters from the representation of the prehistoric village), the cleanliness and the owner who was very helpful and polite.
Leaving Dispilio and following the road north of Kastoria for about 65 km we reach one of the highlights of the area. The Nymfaio village. Nymfaio not so many years before was nearly deserted but due to the love of people who were borned and raised there (and of course the money they invested there) today it's a famous destination especially among greek travellers. Nymfaio is built at an altitude of 1300 meters and while you approach the village the view of the valley bellow is enchanting. At the entrance of the village there is a free parking where you can leave your car and from this point it's only 10 minutes walk to the central square. Cobblestone little streets, traditional buildings, cosy little cafes and restaurants form a very nice picture.
The entrance to Nymfaio

During my stay I liked most a small cafe named Ati (translation: horse) with a nice fireplace inside for the cold winter nights and a nice terrace outside for the warmer days. If you visit it don't forget to ask for a piece of their home made pies. They are delicious!
At the end of the village starts a path that leads to ''Arktouros''. Arktouros is a non profit organization for the protection of bears. It is treating injured bears or young bears that have lost their mothers and can't survive in the wilderness. Even if you are not interested in visiting arktouros you should follow that path just to enjoy the forest walk. This path is literally in the forest! With normal pace you will need about 20 minutes to reach arktouros.
The path to 'arktouros' at Autumn
There are other villages and cities around too that need your attention if you decide to visit Kastoria. For example Nestorio, Florina, Amintaio, the Prespes lakes and others but I will present them to you on another post when I have explored them better and have the best photos for you!