Kastoria

Recently I visited Kastoria and I was reminded why everyone speaks with delight about this small city. Kastoria is a little gem build on a peninsula which extends into a beautiful lake. The Orestiada lake. Kastoria is situated about 190 km from Thessaloniki or 490 km from Athens. In my opinion you will need 4 or 5 days and a car to see Kastoria and some places around. If you only want to see Kastoria 2-3 days will be enough but it would be pity to miss for example a visit to Nymfaio (a magnificent village where ''Arktouros'' bear shelter is).

Kastoria as seen from the entrance of the city

The peninsula where Kastoria is built, is a hill and the city extends on both slopes of this hill. The two most characteristic neighborhoods of Kastoria are ''Doltso'' and ''Apozari''. These two neighbourhoods consists of old houses build in a noble traditional style. Even the newer houses are built in a way to resemble this style so as not to alter the whole personality of the area. Walking the cobblestone streets of Doltso and Apozari is something you shouldn't miss if you visit Kastoria.
From days past until today citizens of Kastoria were excelling in making furs and everything made of leather. Especially furs, along with tourism, is their main income. You shall find many shops inside or on the suburbs of the city that sell the finest of furs and leather clothes.

Cobblestone streets in ''Doltso" neighborhood

The other thing (except from furs and leather) that Kastoria is known for is it's lake. This beautiful lake is populated by many kind of fish and around it live many kind of birds like ducks, swans and other species. Maybe the first thing that everyone who visits Kastoria should do is to go round the peninsula by car or on foot. The whole round is about 7 km long and after a point the road becomes one way traffic. To do this you should follow the south beach road which is named Megalou Alexandrou (translation: Alexander the Great). After you pass a lot of cafes and restaurants by the lake the scenery begins to change......The road becomes one way and quite narrow and the view is breathtaking. Old trees form a tunel over your head and by your right hand you can see the beautiful lake. It's usual for the lake to freeze at winter providing a scenic view but in my opinion autumn or spring are the best seasons to visit the city. If you visit the city and especially this lake road in Autumn a carpet of brown leaves lay on your feet while the light of the sun comes through the last red and brown leaves of the trees above your head.

Road by the lake that circle Kastoria's peninsula

Another part of the lake road

Another part of the lake road

Anytime of year you will meet people jogging, cycling or just walk this road by the lake and you can see by the pictures why........Of course my photos can't give you the whole image which is far better! Midway the circle of the peninsula you shall meet the cave of the dragon (spilia tou drakou), which is a cave you can visit and the monastery of Holy Mary Mavriotissa (Panagia Mavriotissa). Ending the circle of the peninsula you reach the north beach of the Kastoria city which is very beautiful too.

Part of the north beach of the city

If you like museums a nice one to visit is the folklore museum which is in the Doltso area (Kapetan Lazou street). The building of the museum is a typical noble house of times old. There you can see how a house of that time was structured, with it's cellars, the living areas, some clothes of old times and even a script of that era made between the father of a family and his soon to be son in law about the amount of dowry. As you see, back then, it was something natural for a man to demand returns in order to marry a woman. Different times, different habbits.
Strolling through the city you shall see that every few steps you should come upon an old chuch. These churches are characteristic of Byzantine and after Byzantine architecture and some of the most known are Panagia Koubelidiki and Agios Stefanos.
After a long walk to the streets of Kastoria you will need to rest and enjoy nice food. One of the best restaurants I have visited is 'Doltso', named by the famous neighborhood and of course it's situated in this neighborhood. The building is a traditional one and the service is exceptional as are the dishes. Try local recipies and I believe you will be more than pleased.
If at some point you feel you have seen enough of Kastoria there are many other things to see or do around this beautiful city.
About 5 km south of Kastoria is a small village called Dispilio. The reason that someone should visit Dispilio is the fine representation of a prehistoric village by the lake. Thousands of years before people built there huts made of clay and canes. In todays representation you can see these huts and inside them tools and other everyday things that prehistoric people used.

 Representation of prehistoric lake village

Wooden huts built on the lake

At Dispilio there is a fantastic little hotel too if you deside to stay outside Kastoria. The hotel's name is Villa Del Lago. By staying there you solve the parking problem that exists in some of Kastoria's neighborhoods while you are only 10 minutes by car away. Moreover I was delighted with the rooms, the location (just 100 meters from the representation of the prehistoric village), the cleanliness and the owner who was very helpful and polite.
Leaving Dispilio and following the road north of Kastoria for about 65 km we reach one of the highlights of the area. The Nymfaio village. Nymfaio not so many years before was nearly deserted but due to the love of people who were borned and raised there (and of course the money they invested there) today it's a famous destination especially among greek travellers. Nymfaio is built at an altitude of 1300 meters and while you approach the village the view of the valley bellow is enchanting. At the entrance of the village there is a free parking where you can leave your car and from this point it's only 10 minutes walk to the central square. Cobblestone little streets, traditional buildings, cosy little cafes and restaurants form a very nice picture.

The entrance to Nymfaio

During my stay I liked most a small cafe named Ati (translation: horse) with a nice fireplace inside for the cold winter nights and a nice terrace outside for the warmer days. If you visit it don't forget to ask for a piece of their home made pies. They are delicious!
At the end of the village starts a path that leads to ''Arktouros''. Arktouros is a non profit organization for the protection of bears. It is treating injured bears or young bears that have lost their mothers and can't survive in the wilderness. Even if you are not interested in visiting arktouros you should follow that path just to enjoy the forest walk. This path is literally in the forest! With normal pace you will need about 20 minutes to reach arktouros.

The path to 'arktouros' at Autumn

There are other villages and cities around too that need your attention if you decide to visit Kastoria. For example Nestorio, Florina, Amintaio, the Prespes lakes and others but I will present them to you on another post when I have explored them better and have the best photos for you!

Monemvasia

The entrance to the old city

Monemvasia is maybe the most well known castle-city in Greece. It's situated about 290 km from Athens and you can reach it with a car in about 3,5 hours. Looking at a map you can find it in the right ''leg'' of Peloponnese region. Starting from Athens you follow the national highway to Korinthos-Tripoli and when you reach outside Tripoli you leave the highway following the exit towards Sparti. When you pass Sparti you go on for about 15 km until you see the signs to Monemvasia (You shall see a bridge over the road at this point). From there you have to drive for about 70 km to reach Monemvasia.
This beautiful fortified ancient city is built on a small island which is connected with the rest of Peloponnese with a small bridge. Both the fortified city and the village outside the walls are called Monemvasia.
If you book a hotel room inside the walls you must be prepared to pay more and leave your car outside the city. This could be a problem if you carry too much baggage. On the other hand staying on the village outside the walls is in my opinion better, as you are close to the old city and you make your life easier at the same time. Especially on a very hot summer day (something which isn't rare there) believe me........you wouldn't like to search for your hotel on foot while holding a suitcase.
Of course I have to admit that the old city inside the walls is far more beautiful than the village outside.





Monemvasia from inside the walls

Once you are inside the walls you feel like going back centuries. Take your time to wander the cobblestone alleys and feel free to get lost! The city isn't so big so eventualy you will find your way back. All around you can see many churches (some of them really old) and in my opinion you should climb the steps and uphill root that reaches the higher spot of the city where the church of Agia Sofia (Holy Wisdom) is. The view from there is simply breathtaking. You not only see the whole city from above but your gaze is captured by the endless blue of the sea. Of course you should wear the right shoes and be prepared for approximately a 15 minute difficult walk.
Monemvasia was the place of living of Yiannis Ritsos. Ritsos was a great Greek poet and his house can still be seen inside the walled city. Outside his house you can see his marble bust.

The house of Yiannis Ritsos

After a long walk inside the city and especially if this walk was under the hot summer sun you can rest and have coffee or food in one of the cafes or restaurants. All these cafes and restaurants are also ancient houses or made like ones so as not to alter the city's character. Some cafes and restaurants are also outside the walls in the new city.

Cobblestone alley

One of the many ancient churches of the city

Cobblestone alley at night

Part of the new city with tavernas (restaurants) by the sea

As I mentioned before you can't go with a car in the old city and you have to park it outside the walls but if you don't go early in the morning you may not find a parking space. Maybe the best solution is to leave your car in the new city and take the local bus to go to the old city. It's less than five minutes drive. Closing this post I would like to remind you that if you are keen on making a tour around Peloponnese, Monemvasia surely deserves your attention!

Nafpaktos and Galaxidi

Nafpaktos as seen from the castle above the city

My first post about Limeni was clearly a choice for your summer vacations but the next 2 cities are equally good whenever you choose to go. Of course you may not swim in winter but these cities offer you many other things to see or do. Galaxidi and Nafpaktos can be combined for a few days exploration. For example you can stay in a hotel in Galaxidi and go to Nafpaktos for a day excursion. My opinion though is to do the opposite as Nafpaktos has many things to do and you can combine your stay with a day excursion to the villages of 'Oreini Nafpaktia' which are villages situated on a high altitude but not too far from the city. Nafpaktos is about 220 kilometers from Athens and even though it belongs to the region of 'sterea ellada' it's best to reach the city via Peloponnese region and Rio-Antirrio bridge. So starting from Athens you follow the national highway to Korinthos-Patras and just before you reach the city of Patras you should follow the road to Rio and then cross the bridge to Antirrio. From Antirrio it's only a small distance to Nafpaktos.

The Rio-Antirrio bridge as seen at night from Nafpaktos castle
 

You can easily stroll around Nafpaktos on foot and you may only need your car to go up to the castle. One of the best parts of the city is the old port that is kept in a very good condition and brings you images of the days when it's walls defended the city from pirate ships. All around this port there are many cafeterias and restaurants and it's obvious that there beats the heart of the city.

The old port (photo was shot the day of the representation of Nafpaktos seafight)

In 1571 there was a great seafight in the sea area outside Nafpaktos and every year (at October)  there is a representation of the whole event which is best to view from the cafe standing above the city (just bellow the castle). The event starts just before sunset and continues until night has fallen. The whole spectacle is very impressive with the use of fireworks and other light effects.

Firework show after the end of the representation
 

Before reaching the old port and while having the sea at you left hand there are hidden pedestrian small roads very graphic and filled with small restaurants where you can eat well in good prices. Visiting the castle is also a must and then you can have your coffee just bellow where there are 2 cafes with great views of the city and the sea. A good idea is to visit these cafes at night when you can have a drink while seeing the city at night from above.
Nafpaktos is also well known for the villages around. Many greeks don't even know the name of these villages but if you tell them 'oreini nafpaktia' they understand that you talk about these villages. The most famous of these villages is Ano chora at an altitude of 1460 meters. All these villages will astonish you if you are a nature lover. If not you may find them boring.The way up the mountain is passing by fir trees forest and springs of water. Also the drop of temperature as you get higher is obvious even on a hot summer day. Most of these villages have guesthouses, taverns (with nice food), and small traditional cafes who offer coffee and ''gliko koutaliou'' (it's a homemade sweet made of boiled fruits, sugar and other herbs.When you ask it you must define the type. For example ''gliko koutaliou kerasi'' which means with cherry, or siko which means with fig, or stafili which means with grape and there are many more). The road is such that you must go on low speed, so for a distance of 50 km. you may drive for an hour but as I said before if you like nice views and scenic route give it a try. There are two roads that lead to different villages. In my opinion the best is the one that leads to Ano chora. At the crossroads outside nafpaktos there is a big sign that names the villages so you will know where to go.

If you decide to visit Galaxidi you should leave Nafpaktos following the provincial coastal road to Itea. The distance between the 2 cities is about 65 km.

 

Galaxidi as it seen from it's coastal road
 

Galaxidi is a small beautiful city with a scenic port where you can go for a day's excursion or stay a night or two. Climate in Greece is mild and even in October (when the picture was shot) weather is usually good. Surely here you can relax, drink your coffee by the sea and eat in nice restaurants.

Coastal road in Galaxidi ideal for a walk
 

In the picture above you can see the start of the coastal road in Galaxidi which is ideal for a relaxing walk. Following this road you pass between a beautiful grove from one side and the sea at the other. You will also meet a monument dedicated to all seamen and their families as Galaxidi has a long naval tradition. (there is also a naval museum in the city). The building you see in the picture above is a small cafe where you can have breakfast and drink your coffee while enjoying a beautiful view.

The monument dedicated to seamen and their families
 

Graphic side street
 

If you visit the area for you summer vacations a nice village also suitable for swimming and with a plenty of choices for lunch or dinner is Erateini. It's placed between Nafpaktos and Galaxidi and it's about 20km from Galaxidi.
After reading this post I hope that I did enough to introduce to you those 2 cities. I didn't mention details like visiting museums etc. because my intention is just to make you pinpoint them and aquire some basics. Details nowdays can be easily found if you search the internet. Moreover, judging by my self of course, joy of the journey starts from planning it!

Limeni (Peloponnese, Mani)

Limeni (view from the entrance of the village)
 

Every start has it's difficulties (as this is my first post) but I will do my best to inform you about this beautiful destination called Limeni. As you can see this foto is taken in 2009 but since then I have returned many many times just to sit by the sea and look at the beautiful view. Limeni is a small graphic village located in Mani (Peloponnese region) and it is famous for it's crystal clear waters, the old noble houses built of handcrafted stone and the taverns that offer fresh fish. When we say Mani we mean the middle peninsula of Peloponnese region.Other famous places in Mani is Gytheio, Areopoli, Diros (with the famous caves), Kotronas, Gerolimenas. Limeni is about 280 kilometers from Athens (about 3,5 hours with a car).Starting from Athens you follow the national road to Korinthos-Tripoli and after Tripoli you follow the provincial road towards Sparta-Gytheio-Areopoli-N.Itilo. After Gytheio and while driving to Areopoli you shall see the wild beauty of Mani. Mountains with nothing but very low plantation nearly bare, overlooking amazing little gulfs with crystal waters. It's easy to visit Limeni either you stay in Gytheio or Areopolis or Gerolimenas but it's not advisable to do so as a day excursion from Athens. Even though there are some appartments and hotels for holiday rental in Limeni in my opinion it's better to stay in a larger place like Gytheio in order to have more options for entertainment and visit Limeni for swim and lunch. It's so small that it doesn't even have the smallest shop.There are only taverns!

the essence of greek summer (beer or ouzo and greek food by the sea)



picture taken from tavern 'to magazaki tis Thodoras' 



Limeni doesn't have an organized beach.In the entrance of the village (at the end of the downhill road take the left u turn) it has a fantastic bay where you can swim but you have to climb down some rocks (not steep at all-even kids can do it).When it's time for lunch you can be sure that you will eat well! 4 tavernas in such a small village ensure that you will have plenty of choice as where to sit and have lunch. If you choose to eat fish you can rest assured that is fresh but be prepaired to pay much more than if you choose a variety of other dishes. Most of the times I use to go to the tavern you meet first while going into the village.You can find it on the same u turn I described above. It is called ''to magazaki tis Thodoras''. It's not specialized in fish as the other taverns but it has nice ''mezedes'' (variety of greek dishes).
Closing this post I would like to say that this beautiful village offers tranquility and amazing pictures to every traveller along with nice food but unless you like total calmness and isolation you should stay elsewhere and just visit Limeni as a day excursion.
Believe me.......the colour of the water, the smell of grilled fish and the amazing view will stay in your memory for a long time!